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Saiko
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There are many things that can cause disagreement in an otherwise happy couple: it could be a thermostat setting or a preference for vacation destinations. Or it could be a taste for sushi. When one person has a mania for raw fish on vinegared rice and her husband (not naming any names) shudders at the thought of it, there can be a problem when restaurants are chosen. So isn't it great to find a restaurant whose business card says "Steak, Sushi"? Such a place is Saiko. You may remember my review of Opera, where I dined last October at the conclusion of my series of concerts based on the great American songbook, sponsored by the City of Chicago. (If you don't remember, click here to check it out.) When we dined there, Chef Paul Wildermuth was within weeks of opening what he modestly described as a sushi joint in the empty space just to the south of Opera. As I expected he might, Chef Wildermuth has done it up right. The word "saiko," which I am told can be pronounced like the name of the Hitchcock movie, or, more properly with the accent on the second syllable, means "one of a kind." Saiko is. To start with, you might want not to go there with the chairman of the FCC and other similarly people similarly sensitive to indecency. The murals on the walls of Saiko feature a number of not-particularly-discreet female nudes. And once you have absorbed the décor (easier to do if you've already been exposed to Opera), the menu will dazzle you again. Most of the sushi menu is standard, although beautifully executed. Sushi, after all, is a genre (like the American songbook) that profits from being put in the hands of people who love and respect it. Chef Wildermuth has recruited Chef Kenju Hirokoshi to do his sushi. Chicago's sushi lovers remember him from the late, lamented Ya Na Se. But sprinkled in with the expected hamachi and uni are some decidedly nonstandard items. How about a crispy Kobe beef maki roll, not to mention a foie gras maki with Asian pear sauce? For those who want the more traditional cooked Japanese fare, there are such things as tonkatsu, a breaded pork cutlet that will make the most resolute meat eater feel at home. Even your vegetarian friends can find things to please them. The steak lovers in the crowd will be happy to find a good assortment of Japanese flavored entrees that feature Wagyu, the breed of cattle that is used to produce Kobe beef. The true Kobe steer is fed on beer and given regular massages, but even their American cousins who receive less spa-like treatment produce some marvelously marbled and flavored steaks. And even you sushi lovers owe it to yourself to try the Shogun ribeye with the wasabi potato cakes. The wasabi isn't concentrated enough to clear your sinuses and rip the top of your head off, but it gives a nice accent to a familiar dish. As a bonus, Saiko is open for lunch and offers an ahi tuna burger that will make even beef lovers sit up and take notice. As always, I skip the desserts. That's a shame, because Saiko's Yuzu tart was featured on the cover of Chicago magazine, in their article on the best new restaurants of 2003, and there are also a mango-flavored crème brulee and a sundae of coconut ice cream with chocolate sauce, among others. When I was there for lunch in late July, Suzanne, our favorite server, told me that the pastry chef was just a few days away from greatly expanding the number of dessert options. My sweets-loving Webmeister has been salivating since he heard the news. For lunch or dinner, fish or beef, Saiko is worth a trip to the south Loop. NOTE :We ate a very pleasant lunch at Saiko on August 25. On September 2, the Webmeister went there, only to find that they are serving dinner only. Saiko |
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